Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Spaghetti alla carbonara -- named for the charcoal maker's wife -- is ideal for an impromptu supper. When you make something this simple, it requires the best ingredients: fresh eggs, a fruity olive oil, freshly ground pepper, and top-quality pancetta or bacon. This version is adapted from Pane e Salute, by Caleb Barber and Deirdre Heekin, who for years owned a restaurant of the same name in Woodstock, Vermont. Now they grow grapes and make delicious Vermont wines at La Garagista.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2/3 cup diced guanciale, pancetta, or bacon (cut into 1/4 x 1/4 x 1-inch sticks)
6 egg yolks
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan or Romano cheese
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
Salt
1 pound spaghetti

1. Set a large pot of water over high heat for the spaghetti.

2. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil and cook the pancetta, stirring, for 5 minutes or until it browns. Remove the pan from the heat. Transfer pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of fat. (If using bacon, brown it in a dry (oil-free) skillet until golden). Let the skillet, and the pork fat in it, cool off the stove top.

3. Once the pasta water is bubbling, add enough salt so that the water tastes salty like the ocean. Stir in the spaghetti and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or so, until it is tender but still has some bite.

4. To the cooled skillet, and off the heat, add the cheese, then the yolks. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the pepper. Place the warm pancetta at the sides of the skillet. (Keeping the skillet off the heat is important. You don’t want the egg to cook. The pasta and its boiling water will cook the egg once added to the skillet.)

5. Dip a heat-proof measuring cup into the pot and remove 1 cup water. Drain the pasta without shaking the colander to hold the hot water onto the spaghetti. (I like to scoop the pasta out from the water and drop it right into the skillet.) Immediately toss the pasta into the skillet of eggs. Toss quickly using two large spoons to combine. To loosen the sauce, add 2 tablespoons of pasta cooking water, at a time, to the pasta. If it’s too watery, set the pasta over medium-low heat for 30 seconds, stirring, without letting the eggs curdle to help evaporate water and get the sauce to the right consistency (this takes practice…but the less you heat it the better.) Add more salt, pepper, and Parmesan, if you like. Serves 4. Adapted from “Pane e Salute”, by Caleb Barber and Deirdre Heekin.

Note: You can sear the guanciale, pancetta or bacon in a separate skillet if you don’t have time to wait for the skillet to cool down.